We stopped for lunch just past 13,000 feet – a massive 4km up. Unfortunately the weather turned, and it was very much “head down and get there” for the last stretch to Periche at 14,000feet (4.3km) – the highest point on our trek. Despite the rain the scenery was still awesome, walking along the base of a glacial valley dotted with massive morraine (boulders deposited by the glacial flow several thousand years ago). We had also no moved well about the tree-line, and the plant life was become more and more sparse; small shrubs clinging to the landscape.

The attitude of the monks did seem rather odd, and they all looked rather “thuggish” for want of a better word. They also seemed very well fed compared with the locals. We were told that we were not to take film or use flash photography, which was of course fine. To our surprise (and disappointment), once we were inside the leading monk was extremely rude, barking at us not to take film or flash (which we were not doing), and going on to say things like “this is my country, you do what I say!”, and “I know what you westerners are like, I know what you are thinking, but I won’t let you”, implying that we would surreptitiously take video, also stating “you must not film – this is a sacred ceremony and no filming is allowed”. None of us had any intention of violatiing their wishes of course, and there was no need for such aggression. One of our party was even kicked out for taking still shots with a camcorder despite stating that he was just taking stills.

The ceremony itself consisted of about 30 minutes of chanting, and they blew a thick cloud of Juniper incense. I found myself getting rather light-headed as I listened to the chanting, and a bit “floaty”, and a few minutes later to our collective embarrassment Lucy (one of the leaders and skydiving journalist), Holly (intended first woman to do a solo jump here) and I got totally uncontrollable giggles in response to another of our party dozing off! I just about managed to hide it by pretending to have a coughing fit, but I have not laughed that much in a long time. I think I blame the incense + altitude!

Once we left the monks were again very rude, actually laughing openly at Holly with her video camera that they had not allowed her to use. We also then discovered from Serena (the trek leader) that she had negotiated with the monks about filming but had rejected their outrageous request for $900 per camera; so much for “a sacred ceremony that must not be filmed”!

Back in the lodge another piece of the picture fell into place with a sign stating that the monks owned the lodge and the rent was very high therefore they had to charge extra if we were not going to eat there (see below). None of us were at all impressed, and have concluded that the monks are more like a local mafia, and not at all what one we expected from Tibetan Buddhist leaders.

Despite still being a little weak the day’s trekking was fine, especially given that our Sherpa kindly took my pack for the two long steep climbs. During the morning we contoured around a higher south-facing mountain side which was very different to the other locations, with barbed scrub bushes, many more of the beautiful (and usually sparse) mountain flowers and a constant sound of grasshoppers in the air. It was a beautiful day as well which was a nice change, although I managed to sun-burn my hands.