Archive for the ‘Phakding’ Category

Trek day 2: Phakding – Namche Bazaar (11,000 feet)

Saturday, September 27th, 2008
Today was the first day of proper treking; about 4 hours before lunch and 3 after. We were already starting to acclimatise and actually felt pretty good for the morning, which was the easier part of the day. Now that we were getting higher the scenery became truly stunning, mountains sprouting waterfalls all around us pouring down into the river at the bottom of the glacial valley we were following.
One of the several beautiful waterfalls along the route
The mountains continued to be quite populated though, with tiny communities strung out along the mountain path. There is such a striking contrast up here compared to Kathmandu; there is no evidence of a class split, in fact no evidence of poverty. Instead the people seem happy and well fed, the children are well clothed and we saw at least two schools, one attached to a monastery. The locals are living totally in harmony with nature, taking what they need in terms of food, fuel and building materials from the local land, electricity from local micro-hydro projects (eg. 70KW) and they seem to have a much better quality of life for it compared with their city-dwelling brethren. Unfortunately, I suspect that the encroachment of Western culture is partly to blame for people moving into the city and in most cases suffering a great reduction in quality of life.
Two healthy, happy local boys who were fascinated with my camera (I took photos then showed them their own pics, to much giggling and excitement :)
Shortly before lunch we entered the Sargamatha (Mt. Everest) national park. We came through an ornate entry way to be greeted with the most stunning view to date (see below). Down the path to the river the hillside was adorned with yet more of the massive boulders engraved with prayers (in pic). Similar boulders were in every little village along the route, and they are not just painted – the white bits are the the original surface of the rock and the black areas have been relived (carved) to a depth of about half an inch.
Sagarmatha (Mt Everest) national park just inside the entrance, with a prayer embossed boulder on the right and me enjoying the view!
After lunch we faced a much more serious challenge – a 500m climb up the Namche hill. This was considerably less enjoyable and seriously hard work, but when we finally arrived in Namche Bazaar we felt fantastic and it was quite an achievement to do it in only 3 hours.
John on one of the many steel-cable bridges.
John and me in Namche Bazaar, tired but glad to have arrived.

Trek day 1: Lukla – Phakding

Saturday, September 27th, 2008
The first day of trekking was fairly easy – two hours before lunch and one and a half after. We were under instruction to take it very easy to avoid precipitating mountain (altitude) sickness, and that proved surprisingly hard for me; I got gently told off twice by the lead sherpa. Thankfully we had a small army of porters going ahead taking our big rucksacks with our overnight gear so we just had to have small backpacks.

There were many small farmsteads and villages strung out along the mountain path, and as was apparent from the air there was no road route to most of them other than the path.

A typical example of the buildings along the route, with multi-coloured prayer flags hanging above the settlement.
All goods were carried back and forth by Yaks (see below) and on the backs locals, who have a massive carrying capacity (eg. 10 15ft 8×1 wooden planks!) – see pic below.
One of the super-human porters charging past us up the mountain with up to 60KG on their backs!
Yak… yak…. yak….
We arrived at Phakding at about 4pm, and I promptly crashed out in the very minimalist room, and other than getting up for supper spent most of the rest of that day and night asleep.
Proof that I really am here. :)