Archive for the ‘Namche Bazaar’ Category

Day 5: Trek to Tengboche

Sunday, September 28th, 2008
I was mostly better again this morning and was ready to get back on the trail. Unfortunately though, John had twisted his knee badly the day before during the monastery trip and there was no way he would be able to come with us, so this morning we parted ways but I will see him again in 3 days time.

The other thing I was saying goodbye to was nice Western-style loos. For the next 36 hours or so I would have to bite the bullet and use the more traditional “hole in the floor” type loos that you have to squat over; some are not too bad with porcelain bowls (although manually flushed with a bucket), but some are basically a shack with a gap underneath with a hole in the wooden floor! Definitely not one of the highlights of the trip.

Loo!

Despite still being a little weak the day’s trekking was fine, especially given that our Sherpa kindly took my pack for the two long steep climbs. During the morning we contoured around a higher south-facing mountain side which was very different to the other locations, with barbed scrub bushes, many more of the beautiful (and usually sparse) mountain flowers and a constant sound of grasshoppers in the air. It was a beautiful day as well which was a nice change, although I managed to sun-burn my hands.

The winding mountain path
The powerful river with prayer flags hanging off the bridge in the foreground.

We arrived in Tengboche in early-afternoon, just before the cloud moved in. It is a grassy plateau on the mountain top with a big monastery (the main one in the region) and a number of houses and lodges dotted around the edges.

Day 4, recovering, Namche Bazaar

Saturday, September 27th, 2008
Today I was supposed to go to the drop zone, but was still feeling rough so stayed in the town. By the afternoon I was feeling better though so visited the local monastery (see below).
Inside the Namche monestary

After that, a few of us went to look at the new local primary school, and was given a tour with the headmaster, who lives on the site. It was very small given that it caters to 90 pupils. It was neat and looked very organised but there was a painfully obvious lack of equipment in the science labs, only eight computers and not really enough books to go around. They currently survive on 40,000 rupees per month (about

Day 3, rest (ill) day

Saturday, September 27th, 2008
The town of Namche Bazaar nestles into what appears to be an old glacial head (a half-bowl just below the mountain peaks); a collection of multi-coloured roofs dotting the hillside. Unfortunately I did not get much of a chance to explore yesterday though since I was pretty poorly. It started out with tummy pains, and developed into a nasty fever in the early afternoon – shivering at altitude is not fun I discovered since you hyperventilate and start losing feeling in extremities! I spent the afternoon and evening in bed feeling utterly miserable, but thankfully it was pretty short lived and by the following morning the fever had passed.
Namche Bazaar

I did manage to observe one thing though; we were woken in the morning by a chipping sound. What was causing it was the locals hand-chipping locally quarried rock into the bricks that make up all the buildings. The precision with which they make the blocks and the buildings is quite amazing though – every block perfectly sitting with its neighbor with almost no mortar (if any at all in some of the buildings). Also, all the stone is quarried locally and carted around partly on the backs of those incredible porters (see below)! OK, being geeky about low-tech building methods, will shush now!

Uber-porters carrying massive blocks of granite to be broken and carved into bricks
A sample of the perfectly engineered walls

Trek day 2: Phakding – Namche Bazaar (11,000 feet)

Saturday, September 27th, 2008
Today was the first day of proper treking; about 4 hours before lunch and 3 after. We were already starting to acclimatise and actually felt pretty good for the morning, which was the easier part of the day. Now that we were getting higher the scenery became truly stunning, mountains sprouting waterfalls all around us pouring down into the river at the bottom of the glacial valley we were following.
One of the several beautiful waterfalls along the route
The mountains continued to be quite populated though, with tiny communities strung out along the mountain path. There is such a striking contrast up here compared to Kathmandu; there is no evidence of a class split, in fact no evidence of poverty. Instead the people seem happy and well fed, the children are well clothed and we saw at least two schools, one attached to a monastery. The locals are living totally in harmony with nature, taking what they need in terms of food, fuel and building materials from the local land, electricity from local micro-hydro projects (eg. 70KW) and they seem to have a much better quality of life for it compared with their city-dwelling brethren. Unfortunately, I suspect that the encroachment of Western culture is partly to blame for people moving into the city and in most cases suffering a great reduction in quality of life.
Two healthy, happy local boys who were fascinated with my camera (I took photos then showed them their own pics, to much giggling and excitement :)
Shortly before lunch we entered the Sargamatha (Mt. Everest) national park. We came through an ornate entry way to be greeted with the most stunning view to date (see below). Down the path to the river the hillside was adorned with yet more of the massive boulders engraved with prayers (in pic). Similar boulders were in every little village along the route, and they are not just painted – the white bits are the the original surface of the rock and the black areas have been relived (carved) to a depth of about half an inch.
Sagarmatha (Mt Everest) national park just inside the entrance, with a prayer embossed boulder on the right and me enjoying the view!
After lunch we faced a much more serious challenge – a 500m climb up the Namche hill. This was considerably less enjoyable and seriously hard work, but when we finally arrived in Namche Bazaar we felt fantastic and it was quite an achievement to do it in only 3 hours.
John on one of the many steel-cable bridges.
John and me in Namche Bazaar, tired but glad to have arrived.